The Yves Saint Laurent Revolution: The Story of “Le Smoking” by Loo Hui Phang, illustrations by Benjamin Bachelier. Thames & Hudson, 2026. 9780500030967. 168pp. Includes a Cast of Characters, a chronology, and a bibliography which includes exhibition catalogues and films. (This graphic novel was originally published in France, I believe.)
The book opens in 1966, with Yves Saint Laurent finishing sketches to be handed to his premiers d’atelier so that they can turn his ideas into reality. The sketches are of Le Smoking, a tuxedo adapted for women. In the next section, in 1967, he and Betty Catroux walk around New York while she’s wearing Le Smoking with little underneath. They’re turned away from high-end restaurants because Betty is breaking the rules by wearing “men’s clothes.” They discuss the history of fashion and laws about it, plus they run into Andy Warhol, Coco Chanel, and others; it’s easy to see why they were soulmates.
My favorite section in the book is the next, “Dancing,” in which one of the aforementioned premiers d’atelier explains their job. It’s clear how exacting a knowledge of form, fabric, and stitching they bring to their work, and why different premiers d’atelier will produce different products from the same sketches. (This brought comic book inkers and colorists to mind for me; each has their own style and can change the look and feel of the art they help finish.)
The real star of the book for me is Bachelier’s art. It’s stunning. He blends pencils and inks, includes a bit of collage, and has just the right amount of color, some of it added using unexpected textures. Every page of this book provided me with a beautiful surprise.































